Down to the Jordan Valley

I was in a four-day media training in Amman, Jordan during the last week of November. The trip was a scholarship grant from the United Nations University - International Leadership Institute in partnership with the Konrad Adenauer Foundation. I must say this experience had been one of the most fulfilling and life-changing experiences I have been privileged to be part of. Interacting with one of the brightest, most sensible and humurous bunch of individuals from about 12 countries, it was a celebration of ideas, of learning and fun.

But more than that, I have realised from the training that there is nothing more grand in today's journalism than being able to cover and communicate the complexity of climate change in the simplest terms possible, without being simplistic, nor oversimplifying its impact.

As part of our training requirements, we were tasked to write a reportage of our trip to the Jordan Valley. I am posting here my piece, which I submitted to my office for publication. It's just sad that it is being completely ignored. Nevertheless, I'll have it posted here, afterall I won a travel book about Jordan for this piece. It ought to be read, even in the remotest way possible:

Down to the valley of climate change:

Jordan braces fewer rainfalls

'I FEEL it. I feel the change in climate.' For Shafiq Habash, his years of experience at the Jordan Valley clearly tells him that the precious water passing the Jordan Valley for a long time is vanishing into thin air, denying any signs of when or how often it will come back in the form of rainfall. He said, about one-third of its water resources has been reduced from the last eight years.

Shafiq is a technical expert at the Control Center of the Jordan Valley Authority, operating on a daily basis a computer system that allows the opening and closing of gates along the 110-kilometre King Abdullah Canal.

The canal irrigates a variety of agriculture produce along the Jordan Valley, from vegetables to citrus, as well as bananas. When I got down the bus in front of the Control Center, together with a team composed of an environmental expert, students and journalists participating on a United Nations University (UNU) leadership course, the 13 degrees Celsius chill from the capital was absent in the air. Over an hour trip down to the valley, 250 metres below the sea level, the Jordan Valley is the country's major agriculture region, contributing about 3% to the country's Gross Domestic Product. In economic terms, policy planners see this to be too less to take up more than 60% of the country's water resources.

'Dividing' the Water

From the valley, one could see its borders with neighboring Israel and Palestine. While tension on border controls has always been the primary issue in this part of the Middle East, the valley's more pressing concern is being felt from Amman and its increasing industrial demand, putting high pressure to its already precarious water situation, not to mention that Jordan is considered one of the ten most water-stressed countries in the world.

The continuous receding of water level from its river sources would require a more rigorous management of the water system for Shafiq to avoid chaos, and in his terms, 'injustice' to farmers whose demand for water has always never been met. With less and less water resource, these small farms of an average 3.2 hectares, mostly heritage farms, have been suffering from unmet demands, recently further reduced to only 40% from the previous 50%. He believes that prioritizing of which crops or farms would touch a very political question.

'I can answer your question in April,' expressing hopes despite uncertainties that this year's rainfall will come to fill the tub of the Yarmouk River, north of the valley, so that he could provide more freshwater to farmers.

'Holding' the Water

In search of options to quench its thirst, farmers on the other hand have been taking measures in their own hands, feeling the need for autonomy over the management of their water needs. Our team has proceeded to the Pump Station 55 of the valley where we met a group of farmers led by Engineer Yosf Barakat, the head of the Water Users Association at Development Area 21. The area is considered to have one of the biggest economic activities in terms of production, exported to European countries as well as the neighboring Gulf region.

'We are suffering from the water shortage. Not only that, but also for the change of quality of water,' Engr. Yosf told the team, as our expert resource person Jochen Regner from the GTZ Management of Water Resources Program translates his statement from Arabic to English. With about 270 farm units, the area is lined up with greenhouse vegetables such as peppers, lettuce, and cucumber. However, these produce has now switched sourcing its water from Yarmouk to the King Talal dam, which releases treated wastewater into the stream.

Thoughts of masticating green leafy salads in my fatoush entered my mind. Does this mean the crunchy taste in my salad has its heavy metal effluent? But Mr. Regner was quick to allay my fears. He said the blended treated wastewater comes from household and is safe to use in plants.

But with industrializing Amman, this water source would have to deal with new ways of using treated wastewater. Furthermore, Engr Yosf has mentioned that six farms have received licenses from the Euro-GAP and the GLOBALGAP or the Global Partnership for Good Agriculture Practice. It is a partnership among agricultural producers and retailers who wish to establish efficient certification standards and procedures. These licenses require stringent rules, including high quality source of water in its products. Thus, these farms have resorted to desalination options to meet the standard. But with this system, ensuring profit is difficult, and the farmer has to engage their produce in contract farming.

The association also wants to increase its clout in water management from the Jordan Valley Authority and other farmers mull on investing in desalination plants, added EngrYosf. While farmers have not resorted to violence to meet their water demands, other farms have closed down and decided to sell their lands, which was only approved by the government in 2001.

Walking on 'Drying' Valley

As water issues continue to dry up lands in the valley, foreseen changes of temperature in the region is seen to aggravate the situation. As we walk along the greenhouses at Area 21, my sweating was evidence enough that there was no use for a thermal wear, but rather should be enjoyed as a pleasant condition.

However, how long will it be pleasant? In a study presented by Dr. Fayez Abdullah from the Jordan University of Science and Technology to the UNU leadership course participants, the increase in temperature is seen as the major factor that will affect water and agriculture in Jordan. Trends in rainfall and temperature were determined using detailed analysis of climate data from 1961 to 2005.

The results of the study showed, 'warming was the most likely change in the future with variations in rainfall amounts and a decreasing trend of the number of rainy days.' But for Shafiq Habash, he has been feeling these observations from years ago. As our bus climbs its way back to Amman, I feel a sudden shift from the warmth of the valley back to the chilling temperature in Amman. Such a short trip was enough to make me feel what it means by this sudden change. #### -- Medilyn M. Singh

Rock On

I was sleepy, yet sleepless. My body wanted to rest but my mind wouldn't want to take a rest. Last night was party night at my colleague Lara's place and afterwards I had to catch up with Blossom and Viren's anniversary dinner. Amar and I decided to split up to be able to attend both.

We went home very late, but it didn't stop us from catching the earliest showing of 'Rock On', Farhan Akhtar's latest film. It was like we went home to sleep for a few hours and went back to a gig, I felt like clapping up my hands with the crowd in the screen. Lately, I am seeing the slow evolution of a few Bollywood films. After Jaane Tu..Ya Jaane Na, I've become a real fan of a few actors and directors.

Blame it on the exposure, but I can't remember the last time I've rushed to the cinema hall to watch a Hollywood movie, and I can't even remember which remarkable film was shown by the Filipino community.

Rock On took me to a rock concert, Indian-style. Rocking music, yes music, not noise. A rock and roll that hits home. A dreamer's disappointments, disillusions. Failures and compromises. I guess the biggest word in this film is COMPROMISE. The plot would have been a typical one, the break up of a great rock band, but it took off from there to show how each member of the band has taken their lives after the charm of youth has faded. How they have moved on from a brief success, which seemed applicable only when one is young. Responsibility has caught up the four members of the band, carefully tying up the past inside boxes and store houses.

Arjun Rampal (Joe, the lead guitarist) was on a roll, with his quiet determination, well portrayed the character of pure love and respect for his skills, despite the years, despite how life has brought him to the mundane.

The film has subtly sent the message across, one can't just give up on dreams, as one of the songs said, 'your dream is only your own.' It certainly stirred some sensitivity with the way things are going with me. I can't help but ask, where have all those dreamers gone? Although, I secretly know where one of them is.

The film aptly describes where most of those 'dreamers' are now. The common choices, conveniently dismissed ideals and dreams as youthful extravagance, yet painfully hides secret wishes.

Arjun had to battle between a better life for his family and had to agree to his wife's prodding to get on a job. To be able to make money out of music. This is particularly true with many artists. The struggle between convenience and the joys produced by the power to create.

It's amazing to experience that some movies, despite being delivered in subtitles, knows no boundaries. How else can we judge the beauty and success of a film? But I realized a serious film to be really called successful as a medium with its glaring depiction of many of life's failures, should be able to bring the viewer to a place of hope. In the end, Joe finally saw through his own songs, and derived from the same, the strength to continue moving on the path he has begun.

The music, the theme and the techniques all-together were rocking. The guys were haunted by the past, and the soliloquy of each character in the present is interspersed with what happened in their past, giving the audience the opportunity to thread the narrative by themselves.

Looking for what's missing
I realized since when did I make a review of any other good film? I can't help thinking, was it culture, was it a matter of taste that many Filipino film-makers choose to stay with the sordid, failing to rise above it? Sometimes, I feel that Filipino film-makers have oversimplified the squalid nature of our contemporary lives, and simply fail to go beyond it. Have we really lost our charm? Or have I simply lost that connection? Or am I just carried away by India's emergence in the global culture business?

Nevertheless, a good film is a good film.

Oh my Malaysia!

It may already sound too stale to write about it, but as I have promised (to myself) that I'll make an account trip, which I owe anyway to the fact that it was really a wonderful one, so I've got to tell!

I stopped at the Singapore train station I guess. Yeah, we moved to Malaysia via train, and used the Johor Bahru route. Remembering my first long train ride in Thailand, Malaysia is much closer to Philippines in terms of rural-ilty (if there is such a word). Of course, the countryside in Malaysia does not showcase shanties near train stations. And far, far more clean than Indian railways! No stinking smell and filth in sight. Johor Bahru I think is an economic zone, I saw some manufacturing plants on the way. But all in all, it's greenery in sight.

After four hours, we got down in Tampin station and someone picked us from there to take us to A'Famosa Resort in Melaka. The resort in itself is huge with quite a lot of things to do, including animal shows and the like. But we've just been through that in Singapore. It's a shame we stayed there overnight because the place is sooo nice to go, take a bike and tour by yourself around the resort. The food was 'accommodating' and provided a good number of Indian menu.

In the afternoon, we toured around Melaka. The place, being 'historical' evoked more than that, with the quietness and cleanliness, the city seems lacking of some 'verve' in it. I don't know, maybe we just didn't have enough time to see the whole place. We had good food as well, but it's not helping that we get stuffed with too much seafood!

Our accommodation was so spacious with terrace views and all, we found it such a good bargain! This place is good for family trips..for couples trying to get away too. ;-)

The next morning, another van picked us up at the hotel to take us to Kuala Lumpur. With so much traffic, we went straight for the city tour. There's not much to see. I didn't fancy much the Petronas Towers. The driver cum tourist guide took us to shops which he referred as 'factories' which turned out to be showrooms for shopping. The only shop I liked was the batik shop. I've always fancied batiks and of course, I bought a few items.

In the evening, we went around Bukit Bintang by monorail. We went shopping for sarongs and batiks (again!) and just ended hungry and tired. We were looking for some places to hang out, but it seems it's too expensive to go clubbing in KL.

The next morning, we left Grand Seasons Hotel early to travel to Genting Highlands. We stopped over to a Hindu temple and wen all the way up to a cave, 300 stairs high! I was gasping for breath, with monkeys looking at us, perhaps wondering how did it happen that these poor guys become a better version of themselves!

We reached our hotel in Genting via the Genting Skyway cable car. In Singapore I was freaking nervous whiel in the cable car, but this time, it was just totally relaxing. Passing by a 3km-long forest, looking down on canopies and getting that foggy feeling, I completely forgot I was up there. This one was really amazing.

Genting is more of an entertainment city, with all the rides (which I didn't like a lot anyway) and the casinos and what-have-you. The weather is good, and probably the city is the summer capital of Malaysia, much more like Philippines' own Baguio (except, again for the lack of pollution). The downside here is that since it's a bit cold, air-conditioned rooms are not required. Our host hotel for some reason also did not give us a room with a refrigerator. Our ready-made paranthas did not make it to KL airport.

KL International Airport is just almost as classy as Changi Airport, only it took us forever to get there, as traffic was really bad, approaching back to KL the next morning. I've seen lots of palm plantation and wide roads on the way to the airport. I've learned a few from our driver (who told me that Filipina women are very beautiful, and then after a long pause and aftetr thanking him, he added...those that live in their country, not the ones living outside of it!Har!). I've seen row housing on our way to the airport. He said it's Putrajaya. People live in those areas and work in KL. Somewhat like our Laguna/Cavite-Makati lifestyle.

So that's about it. By the way, just so you know, if you are hopping from one country to another, make sure that your luggage is within the limit of the airport where you are exiting. When we exited Dubai, we were allowed by Singapore Airlines to carry 35kgs. But when we were exiting KL to Manila via Spore in the same airline, we were allowed only 25kgs! We had to use 'we were not informed' (which is true) argument and charmed our way to carry our 26kgs extra, without any charges.

What a fashionable way to leave Malaysia. So Manila, here we come.

Bird's eye view

Before I move to Malaysia, let me share with you some really nice and friendly birds we've met in Jurong Bird Park. They may not be as ideal as watching them in their 'natural' environment, but they are truly amazing.

This one's almost caught in the act.

And this one's really caught, in the act.

But he is too shy about what he just witnessed.

Her take has been that of understanding, and wisdom.

And sometimes, just awe in its rawness.

For life is a dance.

Or perhaps, not.

Or maybe, somewhere under the water, a flight of fancy.

You and I are ready to take, any time.

Back from the Southeast

Finally, jet lag has given me this rare moment to commune with writing. I just got back from Southeast Asia, after a month-long break. I said SEA because we have been, not only to the Philippines, but have covered Singapore and Malaysia in this trip.

Six months back, we just thought of stopping over Singapore (so as not to waste trips and plane tickets), and then one of our couple friends wanted to join us. So we thought, why not include Malaysia, and later they would join us to Philippines. And so we proceeded with the preparations. Funny that I am talking about how it began as our journey just ended.

We spent three fast days in Singapore, which I figured is just enough to experience what it means to stay in a 'clean' and 'orderly' city. Apart from that, it's all the same developments everywhere. Shopping malls. Clubs (ok, save for the famous Singapore sling. It's uhmn..slingy?). As I have become accustomed to the really upbeat Bollywood music, Singapore's taste at Ministry of Sound was too techno, thus 'rigid' for us. Food (Chili crab, yes. But we fell in love instead with Buffalo shrimps.) But we were a bit disappointed with vegetarian options. Even if Singapore has this huge Indian community, we didn't find the same variety as we have in Dubai. Most Indian settlers in Singapore came from the Tamil community and they have acquired an accent that somehow sounds like Chinese.

But it was, yes, I would qualify as an experience, which means it is beyond postcard poses. I have finally 'baptised' the Canon SLR we bought recently. And it has been really a feast for my lens these past 28 days or so. I have taken so many shots in Singapore's nature parks, like the Jurong Bird Park. The variety of birds were just amazing. Any city slicker will easily fall in love with such colors. I'll feature more bird shots later in a separate run down.


The night safari was another treat, except that I cannot help but wonder how they have maintained such 'tamed' wildebeasts to ensure safety of its tourists. A tram took us around the 'open' zoo, with deers and lions just meters away from each other.

Sentosa Island was nice, as a huge entertainment park, but the sea creatures in the underwater world park has really captured all of us beacause even in the so many times I have snorkled, I have not seen such species in such manner. When you actually see the face of a sting ray, it's a smiling one!

On the third day, we went around the city minus the tour driver we hired for two days. We tried the 160m-flyer wheel, which did not help in any way for me to overcome my fear of heights. I felt my ankles were being pulled by gravity the whole time, I ended up seating on the floor. We took the metro, walked the streets of Singapore on a Sunday and the myth of spic and span side streets was shattered. We saw trashes! And we caught one middle-aged Chinese spitting, right in front of us. Maybe we didn't look like tourists for him at all. I was expecting sirens after that but no police cars came nor traffic officer issuing fine.

Next: Moving to Malacca via Johor Bahru

Scoliotic

I've been diagnosed with scoliosis. For the second time. The first time was when I was entering the University of the Philippines. A medical certificate was required for the admissions. The doctor said it was thoracic dextro-scoliosis. A mild one and should be no cause for concern.

Now my back has been giving me pains and I had a check up with the doctor some weeks back, now it is lumbar scoliosis. My ortho without even asking me said, I had scoliosis some ten years back. He's given me some medication and physiotherapy exercises. The exercises are very much similar to the yoga asanas I've been doing in my yoga practices. But this time, it is more focused on alignment. My doctor also recommended swimming as a form of rehabilitation.

I realised that the curve in my spine is calling me for alignment, of lengthening my center. I knew somehow this has got to do with my inner alignment, and the larger things seem to call me to gather my inner awareness towards the center. And focus on what really matters.

The structure in the image is a landmark near my place. I have taken the photo one Friday evening, I was walking by the creek, with only my camera as companion. I have always been fascinated with it, but I don't know exactly what to call it. But what I see in it is balance and strength, made more beautiful by the fire under its belly. And that's what keeps it a glowing structure.

As breathe is my fire, posture is my strength.

Turning Thirty

Oh well, one way or another we have to face the music, and so to dance with it.

I went to driving school early in the morning. Made egg masala roll for breakfast, and then we took off for the fish market.

Yesterday was lots of fun. Just few of us. Viren and Blossom made vegetable biryani. I made pansit bihon and hot and chilli crab. I also made buko pandan minus the buko. Instead, i topped it with mango. Semi-hit.

There's cake cutting too. Supposedly a surprise, but I had to open the door when the delivery guy came. hehe. I got gifts too! My baby of course, surprised me with lovely flowers, and a pair of tiny earrings during the evening (replacement to the one I just lost). Blossom gave me a 'ram' figurine and Adnan bought me a book, Nelson Mandela's 'Long Walk to Freedom'. Hmmm. Our housemate Sheryl gave me a tealight candle holder.

We sang the night away in such a sober manner. And my husband said he realised he could sing. His fighting spirit is stronger than mine. Hahaha!

Will upload photos later. My back is aching. Tells me some sign. Hay, life!